It’s harder than we expected…

John and I are incredibly blessed as we do this walk…no blisters, no knee problems – no pain.  We’re able to walk for 5 or 6 hours and feel pretty good. 

But we begin each day with trepidation.  We know that we’ll be the only walkers on the paths. We’ve seen a smattering of other pilgrims in towns -- but never on the Via Francigena itself. 

We know there will be no pilgrim rest stops…no small towns…no cafes (which made the Camino to Santiago much easier).

The country is beautiful

The path is remote

Between us we carry a gallon of water as a safeguard … a recent walk was 17 miles long with no support facilities along the way, not even a water tap.

At some point each day, we take the wrong path because it’s not clearly marked. 


Or – too well marked – when competing volunteer organizations put up directional signs indication that the Via Francigena goes down two different paths. 

Outside of Bolsena, Italy

Sometimes signs point BOTH ways...

This has added miles to our walks and caused backtracking up steep hills to find our way. 

The published guide we’re using offers approximations and indications.  In our first 30 miles of walking,  the guide offered 130 waypoints to keep us on track, including “look for house on right with crucifix over the door”.  A 12 mile walk is usually 16 miles, and “6 miles remaining” stretches into 9. 

We’re walking along the spines of Tuscan hills with no shade available and temperatures reaching 90 degrees. We see miles ahead to the hilltop village that’s our day’s destination, and count the steep hills and valleys that we’ll have to cross.

But it is a lovely and blessed way to see Italy.  The Tuscan landscape is breathtaking.  The small towns we stay in are charming.  We have the ability to breathe Italy in. 

It feels great when
we're done...

And nothing beats cold water and a frosty beer when we arrive at our destination!  

This gives you an idea of the landscape as we walk...