Roncesvalles to Pamplona …


The first two days over the Pyrenees beat the tar out of us. We were rendered nearly mute from exhaustion and we spent the evenings soaking in hot baths followed by early dinners and bed. Even John who has run 10 marathons said the Camino is tough.

Walking is still tough


Remarkably to us, we wake each morning fit, energetic, and ready for what the Camino was going to deal out.


Days 3 and 4 are both 13-milers on rough trails.

Roncesvalles is the traditional starting point for pilgrims. So after our first two days of Pyrenees solitude, it was jarring to start Day 3 in Roncesvalles with a herd of pilgrims. We found, though, that pilgrims settle into their own pace and by early afternoon we were again walking alone. 


A route marker along the Camino

Brierly is the walking guide that all pilgrims use.  It DID NOT warn us, though, that days three and four were us tough as cresting the Pyrenees.  Steep foothills, scrambling over rocky trails, long descents on muddy slopes.

Finding a tavern with lunch
(they only served sausage...)
 is a great break during a 7 hour hike.

Beaten up again, at the end of Day 4 we shuffled into a four-star hotel in Pamplona and slept 12 hours in luxury.  The next morning we put in a huge pile of stinky, muddy trail laundry. Two hours later a tray of folded clothes returned.  Our own little Camino miracle...
We’re on to the next leg!



Classic photo from the Camino

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