St. Jean to Roncesvalles …

"Do not fear to step into the unknown. For where there is risk, there is also reward." 



The beginning ---
St Jean Pied de Port, France

Here's our recounting of our first two days on the Camino, 

We had prepared for as many contingencies as we thought we could control. Books read, gear selected, itinerary set, physical training complete, blessings received. All that was left was to start walking. 

The morning of April 17^th, 2015, we paused at Porte d’Espagne, the gate in the walled city of St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, from which pilgrims traditionally depart on the “French Way” to Santiago de Compostela, Spain.



Full of apprehension and nervous energy, we took the first of what will be a million steps into the unknown. Over the coming 45 days,  we’ll be walking a path we’ve never been on, commencing with the grueling climb over the Pyrenees.

Our early Camino impressions:

It's not always easy to see the Way...

Totally alone. During our first two days we encountered only three pilgrims. Most pilgrims start over the Pyrenees in Roncesvalles, Spain, to avoid the arduous French hike over the pass.

Searching for the path. In the footsteps of several million pilgrims before us we expected a clearly marked path. But repeatedly we had to stop and search for the yellow arrow. Rarely, we walked along busy highways, sometimes on quiet country lanes, but most often we were on quiet narrow paths following racing streams and cutting through deep forests. It’s with a sense of wonder that we’re on the same path used in the 12^th century.



Jackrabbit up the hills...

Tortoise and hare. John climbs a steep slope with a slow steady step at a time, no stopping until he reaches the top.  Ning charges up a ways, rests, and then charges ahead again until we meet at the top. John hears a Hail Mary drifting in the air from time to time. It’s our personalities in action.



We prepared for rain...

Personally challenging. Beyond the daily walking distance, there’s an elevation difference of 1000 meters between St. Jean and the alpine pass to Roncesvalles. The route travels across valleys and ridges so we’d lean into our poles to struggle step by step up a steep slope, only to give it all back again with a slipperly descent to the valley floor. When we reached the pass with its howling winds, famous for its link to Charlemagne and Roland, we just nodded and hugged. No words were needed to understand the bond that we had just forged in hardship..




The Church in Roncesvalles has a Pilgrim Mass
every evening.  The town only has 30 people...

Spiritual. Roncesvalles, Spain, is rooted in the Camino. Its church, monastery, and huge hostel send off tens of thousands of pilgrims each year. In this ancient setting we were touched to be called forward with dozens of fellow pilgrims during an evening mass for a Camino blessing in many languages.


Camino humor as you reach the top of the Pyrenees